Tuesday, March 11, 2008

A Pirate Looks at 300

Old Dampier, a rough sailor, but a man of exquisite mind
—Samuel Taylor Coleridge

Everybody loves pirates, or at least the romantic notion of pirates. In reality, pirates, all the way back to Antiquity, were universally reviled as the worst sort of sea scum--to be exterminated without mercy. Julius Caesar was captured and ransomed by pirates as a young man. Years later, he returned to their lair and executed the lot. To this day Venetians celebrate the Feast of the Seven Virgins, commemorating the victory of the Cabinetmakers Guild in 1433 over sea rovers from Trieste who abducted a group of young brides and their dowries. The Cabinetmakers hunted the pirates down, killed them all, and retrieved the dowries (no mention is made of the erstwhile brides). My dad, in researching family history, found Triestini pirates (hopefully not hanging) on several branches of the Giraldi family tree. One presumes they called in sick for the Venetian job.

William Dampier always took pains to call himself a privateer. There was often a thin line between the two; privateers were hired men o’ war, with a warrant from the king or colonial governor to harass the enemy (usually the Spanish and later, the French). Pirates were out-and-out brigands, preying on any ship they happened across, regardless of nationality, including their own—that’s what got Blackbeard in trouble.

Born in 1651 and soon orphaned, Dampier received a good basic education in mathematics and literature, including Latin. With bleak prospects ashore, he shipped out as a sailor in the Royal Navy, learning navigation and gunnery. While still in his teens, he managed a plantation in Jamaica and worked as a logwood cutter in Yucatan. Logwood was used for textile dyes and made many a man wealthy; but not Dampier. He shipped out once again from Jamaica as mate on a merchant vessel and was the last to leave when the entire crew jumped ship in the Bay of Campeche, joining a privateer off to harass the Spanish and gather plunder in the bargain. Dampier was the first person to circumnavigate the world three times and was a keen observer of exotic places, people, and events. Unique among his fellows, he kept a journal of his voyages and published them upon each return to England.

I mentioned him to Pat around Christmas time, hinting for a copy of A Pirate of Exquisite Mind, a recent biography of the old scoundrel. Instead she found me a Dover reprint of his Third Voyage Around the World in 1692. This is infinitely superior to any biography; Dampier’s voice comes through, unfiltered, across 300 years. The Dover edition keeps the syntax and spelling of the original; Dampier talks about Indian canoas (canoes) and guanoes (iguanas). His matter-of-fact descriptions of breadfruit, bananas, and “avogado pears” were their first introductions to the English-speaking world. Dampier sailed the West Indies as well as the East Indies and cruised the Galapagos Islands, writing extensively about the giant tortoises and marine iguanas he encountered. He ends each description of an exotic plant or animal with a comment on its culinary qualities. “Most sweet and wholesome a meat” when describing what is today an endangered species makes me cringe a bit, but perhaps we shouldn’t judge too harshly. These fellows were living on the edge and in one chapter, Dampier describes his timely acquisition of several sea turtles for provisions, thereby quelling an incipient mutiny. Had he been unsuccessful, he writes, the starving crew would have eaten the ship’s officers, including him.

Dampier always kept his journals with him, tucking them into a hollowed-out bamboo sealed with wax, when he was ashore trekking across the isthmus of Darien or hobnobbing with the locals on Guam or the Philippines. Dampier was the first Englishman to explore and write about Australia (New Holland). He gave the English language the word “typhoon” and, having survived a West Indian hurricane, was the first to figure out that these storms are giant whirlwinds.

The narrative of his first voyage was a huge best seller and brought him to the attention of Samuel Peppys and the Royal Society. An adventure-hungry public snapped up his books as soon as they were printed and clamored for more. Dampier became something of a cottage industry—anyone having any vague association with him published books of their travels under his “authorship” or just mentioned his name (“Sailed with Dampier against the Spanish”) in the title.

Jonathan Swift, in Gulliver’s Travels, calls him “Cousin Dampier” in the first chapter and uses Dampier’s voyage to Australia as the model for the Land of the Talking Horses in Gulliver’s fourth voyage. Daniel Defoe modeled Robinson Crusoe on Alexander Selkirk, the sailing master of a ship sailing in company with one captained by Dampier. Selkirk had grave doubts about the seaworthiness of the Cinque Ports, and asked to be put ashore. He was marooned for four years until Dampier, on his next round-the-world voyage and serving as navigator under another captain, remembered to stop and pick him up. (It turns out that Selkirk was correct in his assessment; the Cinque Ports sailed off, never to be seen again.) Defoe also borrowed from Dampier’s account of a “Moskito Indian” picked up from another island where he was five years marooned. Samuel Taylor Coleridge based the nautical bits of his Rime of the Ancient Mariner, as well as the description of the albatross, on Dampier’s observations. A century after their publication, Captain James Cook used Dampier’s books as a pilot’s guide for anchorages and prevailing currents during his own historic voyages throughout the Pacific. A half-century after Cook, Charles Darwin read Dampier for information on the natural history of South America and the Galapagos Islands. Dampier’s observations of prevailing winds in the South Seas were included the British Admiralty’s “Sailing Instructions” until the 1930 edition.

Dampier was the first modern travel writer, giving first-hand accounts of his experiences and carefully pointing out any hearsay as such. Writer, traveler, navigator, hydrographer, naturalist, and buccaneer—how cool is that.

Sunday, March 2, 2008

Fairydiddles

It’s dark, it’s cold, and the wind is howling through the trees like a choir of banshees. I’m standing with feet slowly going numb, on the back porch of the Long Branch Nature Center in deepest darkest suburban Arlington, Virginia, waiting on the appearance of wood sprites.

Although they are real creatures, as serious about making a living as any Internet tycoon, fairydiddles or flying squirrels have contributed to enough ghost lore in North America to qualify as semi-mythical. Readily entering houses, flying squirrels get into small spaces in search of food. Attics are a favorite haunt. Stories about spinning wheels turning without human assistance may be laid at the furry feet of these wee beasties who like nothing better than an exercise wheel, no matter what the original purpose.

About a third the size of their more familiar cousins, flying squirrels come out about an hour after dusk. They are actually more common in the mid Atlantic than grey squirrels, their bigger cousins. Being small, quick, and above all, nocturnal, they are usually seen, if at all, as a pale flash in the night woods or a dark shape against a full moon. Of the fifteen or so species world-wide (mostly in Asia including the four-foot long woolly flying squirrel), we have two; the southern and northern species. Northern flying squirrels are found in the mid Atlantic in the mountains in pockets of boreal forest left over from the glacial days and stranded on mountain tops like Dolly Sods in West Virginia. Their southern kin are everywhere else.



Flying squirrels rely mostly on nuts as winter food. Since they have small mouths and can’t stuff their cheeks like chipmunks; they must gnaw a hole in the nut to be able to grasp it while they scamper and fly. They also have a unique way of dining. Grey squirrels chew an acorn to bits while eating it; you find a pile of shell fragments. Mice leave a jagged edge as they gnaw through the shell, bisecting it like you would a soft-boiled egg. Flying squirrels will chew a round hole in the nut and extract the meat. The nut shell looks like an olive minus the pimento. While they will eat peanuts (everything is attracted to peanuts from mice to grizzly bears), flying squirrels prefer hickory nuts and hazelnuts are at the top of their culinary chart. Food not eaten on the spot is cached in scatter hordes, a few nuts here a few there, in hidden locations throughout the forest canopy. In spring and summer, flying squirrels become ravenous carnivores, feeding on large insects like grasshoppers, katydids, and moth larvae and adults. They will eat bird eggs and nestlings and the young of other squirrels, including those of their own species.

Until the babies are about three weeks old, their mothers cannot tell them from other baby flying squirrels and will care for and adopt anything cute and cuddly that they happen across. Researchers at VA Tech discovered this when a family of flying squirrels moved out of their damaged tree hole nest. The mother took a baby in her mouth and sailed off to new digs and came back for the next. The researchers would add a new baby to the nest every time she left. Twenty or so babies later, they came to the conclusion that: a) flying squirrels can’t tell their own babies from others, and b) flying squirrels can’t count.

Not only are they lacking in mathematical skills, flying squirrels can’t really fly, either. Among the mammals, only bats are capable of true powered, flap-your-wings to get where you are going flight. Flying squirrels, however, are champion gliders. They possess a specialized flap of skin, the patagium, stretching from the front legs to the back legs. This flap gives them an enormous (relative to their size) area to act as an air foil. The furry tail spreads out flat for additional airfoil area. Contrary to belief, the tail is not a rudder—flying squirrels steer by swooping and banking, much like a paper airplane. When they get to the target, they use their momentum to scoot 180 degrees to the opposite side of the tree trunk in a singe movement. This disappearing act is an anti-owl maneuver--owls are the flying squirrels’ major predator but owls must learn to counter the flip-around-the-trunk move by flying past and snatching backwards with their talons as they sweep by. In some areas where the owls have figured this move out, flying squirrels numbers are kept low. In areas with less adept owls, flying squirrel populations boom.

Flying squirrels will sometimes crash-land. They have extremely long whiskers which they point forward as they glide. The whiskers act as an early warning system; if they touch a surface first, indicating an incipient crash, the squirrel is quick enough to adjust and land more or less correctly. Flying squirrels are very noisy little beasts; they chatter constantly, even in the air. These vocalizations are so high-pitched as to be inaudible to adult people, and it was once thought that they served as a form of echo location. Up stepped our friends from VA Tech once again with another experiment. They set up a maze and let flying squirrels traverse it in low light conditions. With their outsized eyes exquisitely adapted to dim light, the squirrels had no problems navigating the maze to the reward (you guessed it, peanut butter). When the lights were fully off, leaving the maze in complete darkness, the squirrels crashed into the walls with happy abandon. The conclusion--flying squirrels don’t echo locate (at least not well) although they are very chatty.

A pale flash in the dark and the scrabbling of small claws on bark announces the arrival to the bait of the first customer of the evening. As if by magic, a small face appears on top of the squirrel roosting box, grabs a peanut, and vanishes. The flying squirrel gnaws a small hole in the nut shell to carry it away. I can hear rapid munching noises from the other side of the trunk, moving higher up into the canopy. Flying squirrels need at least a foot of elevation for every two feet they soar. The squirrel climbs to the top of the old oak and launches; we follow the flight with the beams of our flashlights, watching it hit the air brakes and flip upwards for landing on a hickory down the valley. A flip of the tail and the fairydiddle is on the far side of the tree and gone to hide the peanut for future meals.